Full guide on a Tomb Kings Skeleton from start to finish (basing to come later). This is a continuation of my earlier How to paint a Skeleton article.

The paints I used are listed below. All are from Citadel unless otherwise noted.

BaseShadeLayer
Rakarth FleshAgrax EarthshadePallid Wych Flesh
Stegedon Scale GreenWhite Scar
Vallejo Model Color
German Black Brown
Sotek Green
Warplock BronzeTemple Guard Blue
Gorthor Brown
Hashut Copper
Skrag Brown

Model used is a Wargames Atlantic Classic Fantasy Skeleton Warrior.

1 – Prime the model black once it’s built and has a basing material applied. I used Vallejo Dark Earth texture for the base.

2 – Basecoat the entire skeleton with Rakarth Flesh. To make sure you get good, even coverage you’ll need to apply multiple thin coats. Three coats should do the trick. Use a large brush and just go for it. No need to be careful here.

3 – Give the entire model a wash using Agrax Earthshade. Watch for pooling and use your brush to spread the shade to make sure you don’t end up with any tide lines.

4 – Now the real work begins. Layer the whole skeleton with Rakarth Flesh but leave all the dark recesses. This is our first step to add some real depth to the model. Take your time and be care of the areas like the face, hands and rib cage.

5 – Apply our first highlight with Pallid Wych Flesh. You want to hit the same areas as the previous step, but leave some of the Rakarth Flesh showing in the darker areas.

6 – Apply the second and final highlight with White Scar.

7 – Onto the equipment! Lay down a basecoat of Stegadon Scale Green on the bow and the arrow fetching. As you are painting over the black undercoat, you may need a couple coats to achieve good coverage. You can leave the tips of the bow and wraps above and below the hand as we will come back to those later.

8 – Layer Sotek Green in two thin coats onto the bow. I usually try to leave just a bit of the basecoat showing right above and below the wrap of the bow. On the flechting, it’s a highlight, not a layer. Focus on those edges.

9 – Final layer with Temple Guard Blue on the bow and a final highlight on the fletching. And that’s all the teal taken care of!

10 – Moving to the quiver and the hand wrap. For this step I use Vallejo Model Color German Black Brown (70.822). Take your time with the bow, be careful not to paint over your teal of the bow or the bone of the hand. For the quiver you can be quick, just watch the areas where it meets the body of the skeleton.

11 – Highlight the quiver and the hand wrap with Gorthor Brown. (Forget to the take a photo at this point but you can see the highlights on hand wrap on the next step).

12 – Now for the bronze! Lay down a basecoat of Warplock Bronze on the tips of the bow (that little metal bit) and on the skull on the quiver. These details are not required but adding a spot of bronze will really add some pop to the model.

13 – Highlight the bronze areas with Hashut Copper. This is a my favorite step as now the model is really coming together and we can just about see the finished product.

14 – Use Skrag Brown to cover the shafts of the arrows in the quiver. Be careful not to paint over those nice teal flechings.

15 – Let’s bring this all together with a wash of Agrax Earthshade. Shade all of the bronze, the hand wraps on the bow, the entire quiver and the arrow shafts.

16 – Last step! Once the wash is dry, lay down two quick highlights. First is the arrow shafts with Skrag Brown and be sure to leave the recesses between the arrows dark. Second, go back with Hashut Copper for some highlights on the bronze.


Boom! Now your Skeleton Warrior is ready to march to war under the banners of the Tomb Kings. Well, you still gotta base the model (that will be my next guide). Hope you found this helpful and let me know if you have any questions.